Logan Square
20-course | $220 | 8-seat
So, we kind of did a thing. A month ago, we decided to finally splurge on our dream omakase experience, Kyōten. We first heard of chef Otto Phan through Instagram, back when he was at Kyōten Sushiko in Austin, Texas. We were so captivated by his sushi that we were compelled to click follow, even being located over 1,160 miles away. Fast forward two years, and the sushi prayers we didn’t know we had were answered; chef Phan was headed to Chicago. We scrounged up a hefty $220, made our month-out reservation, and patiently waited for one of the most amazing omakase experiences to date.
The 8-seat, 19+ course omakase restaurant, located in Logan Square, was recently opened by Chef Otto Phan, in August 2018. As a sushi chef veteran with experience working at both Nobu and Masa in New York, Chef Phan has rightfully earned his place amongst the top Chicago omakase chefs. With his exceptional resume and undeniable skill, Phan bolsters an unapologetic confidence and aura of excellence. With only two seatings a night and already a remarkable reputation, Kyōten has easily become one of the hardest reservations to land in Chicago.
The second we walked in the door, we immediately felt like royalty. From the wait staff, Justin and José’s welcoming and attentive demeanor, to chef Otto Phan’s engaging disposition, we have truly never experienced such a personalized affair. While we arrived with very high expectations, it was evident from the moment we sat down that the bar for excellence had been raised.
Chef Otto Phan specializes in edomae style sushi, utilizing classic techniques such as marinating, curing, and aging hand-selected fish, bringing out amazing flavor and depth to each bite. Phan’s overwhelming focus and precision is oddly juxtaposed with his captivating personality and conversational receptiveness. Our experience was enhanced tenfold due to the personalization, attention, and interest Chef Otto Phan showed each guest throughout the tasting. Phan was genuinely interested in each guest’s likes and dislikes, preferences, favorite items, and more. Constantly checking in on the temperature of the rice and the ratio of fresh wasabi, we felt very cared for and included in the experience. In-between each expert course explanation, we found ourselves fitting in casual conversation with Phan regarding his travels, past work, and even favorite NY sushi places. We found Phan’s approachable yet confident personality one of the highlights of our night.
One of the most unique aspects of the Kyōten experience was undoubtedly Chef Otto Phan's unprecedented use of Inochi no Ichi, a rare, large-grain of Japanese sushi rice. Phan is currently the only sushi chef in America to implement this strain of shari (rice) in his practice, and we must admit, this fact alone made us a little skeptical of Kyōten’s nigiri. However, after last night’s dining experience, we can confirm that we did indeed “drink the Kool-Aid” and are now avid proponents of Phan’s divergent choice in shari. The large, meaty grains added an extra element to each bite that we never knew we were missing. The complimentary flavors, temperatures, and textures that Phan is able to achieve had us begging for more. When asked what his favorite piece was, Phan simply stated, “it will always be the next one I am about to serve you.” Phan firmly believes that no one piece should be the star, and that each carefully formed nigiri should be just as exciting as the next. With each piece becoming our new favorite, this definitely held true for us throughout our meal. And as if Phan’s selection of rice wasn’t enough of a divergence, his heavy use of aged red vinegar also separates his nigiri from the status quo. With two different batches of shari –differing in vinegar ratios and utilized depending on the intensity of each fish’s flavor profile – Phan’s well thought-out and carefully curated menu will wow even the most seasoned of sushi snobs.
Chef Otto Phan’s uncommon omakase structure was a third notable deviation from the norm. Lighter, more delicate nigiri started off the night (including masu/trout, shima aji, and akami), followed by appetizers (including Suzuki atop saffron rice and octopus with an avocado dill sauce), and finally moving into the last stretch of heavier nigiri (including fan-favorites such as toro, uni, and A5 wagyu).
Our takeaway of the night? We came for the food and left with a love for each and every aspect of the Kyōten experience. We will be patiently awaiting our next bonus, for our chance to become a repeat diner.
Kyōten Omakase at a glance
Rice: Amazing. While Otto Phan’s inochi no ichi, extra-large grain rice has been a point of contention within the Chicago food and sushi community, we absolutely LOVED every last grain. Highly vinegared and extra warm, the rice met all our expectations, and then some.
Fish: The fish at Kyōten was not only extremely fresh but held the most desirable – melt in your mouth like butter – textures. All of Otto Phan’s fish is sourced from his personal fish supplier in south Japan, Fukuoka. Phan told us that he trusts his supplier so completely, that he lets him pick all fish he sends over.
Vibe: Out of this world. From the open and minimalistic décor to the music, Kyōten nails the perfect omakase atmosphere. But seriously, some real emphasis on the music.
Experience: We cannot stress how talkative Otto Phan was, and we loved every second. There is something to be said for how accessible Otto Phan makes himself to his guests; it was absolutely mesmerizing getting the chance to converse with and pick chef Otto Phan’s brain.
Value: With an audacious $220 price tag, Kyōten easily takes the prize for least affordable omakase experience in Chicago; however, we are prepared to passionately argue it’s rightful place as best omakase experience in Chicago as well. With top shelf fish, innovative and masterfully prepared rice, filling number of courses, and exceptional personalization and intimacy, Kyōten easily justifies its price.
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